WE'RE HOME...HOME AWAY FROM HOME, THAT IS

We drove the final leg of our journey West yesterday, from Williams to Salome.  I tried to document our three days in Williams while we were there but our computers just weren't responding.  Williams is a quaint little town about 65 miles south of the Grand Canyon and the last Route 66 town to be bypassed with Interstate 40.  It was from here that we boarded the Grand Canyon Railway train on Saturday morning.  It was supposed to be warm, sunny and little wind.  Actually, it was cool, cloudy and windy.  But even with that said, the Canyon was majestic and beyond description.  We took the bus tour which made three stops along the South Rim.  At the last stop, we saw three long-horned sheep sitting on a narrow ledge; I have no idea how they got there.



Hopi Point
 



Mohavi Point

The hostess on our train car said that she likes to see the Canyon when the clouds pass over because it gives a different dimension to it; sometimes when the sun is very bright, the Canyon colors appear washed out.  

My thought is that we'll just have to come back again sometime.  I'd like to drive to the Canyon and use their free shuttle to visit more of the viewpoints.  But, after seeing the 'trail,' I have no desire to ride anything to the base of the Canyon!  One benefit of going in November is that it was not crowded at all.

Sunday was 'race day' again.  The last race of the season so a sad day for Mr. Bear...but the good news is 'it's only 96 days till Daytona!'  I drove to Flagstaff to see the last movie of the Twilight saga, and get what will probably be my last pedicure for the winter (a sad day for me).

Keith and Cousin Smokey in Williams
 

Our GPS has been so good throughtout our trip...until yesterday.  Don't know what it was thinking but we were on Rt 89 going in to Prescott when it told us to turn onto what appeared to be a country road.  Then another and another until we were finally on a back road that was being 'refurbished' and was scrapped down to the dirt for about a mile.  And then, we're at the top of a mountain with a one-lane switch-back road to the bottom, and a "watch for falling rocks" sign on the right...yikes!  Finally, it brought us back onto Rt 89.  I guess it was a little GPS humor, but we were even more thankful to get to Salome.



WE'RE IN ARIZONA!

We're in Holbrook, AZ in the northeastern corner, still travelling on Rt 40.  The weather has gotten warmer; in the 70's yesterday afternoon.  We took the 70 mile loop through the Painted Desert and the Petrified Forest National Park.  It was a nice day for a leisurely drive through the park.


Tiponi Point in Painted Desert

Blue Mesa in Petrified Forest

At the one overlook, we stopped and got out and these two ravens came and acted like we weren't even there.  I was able to sit down within about two feet of the one before he decided that I was too close and he took off.

Today, we drove to Canyon De Chelly National Monument, 125 miles to our north.  Well, Keith actually drove and he made some remark about driving my butt across the country so what's another 250 miles (but he was smiling when he said it).  Afterward, we both agreed that it was worth the drive.

Tsegi Overlook

White House Overlook (ancient pueblos built in canyon wall and on ground)

Sliding House Overlook

Spider Rock is an 800 ft. sandstone spire

This was the first time that I've used my father's binoculars.  I was amazed at how good they are; they allowed me to see clearly to the 1000 ft canyon floor.

Tomorrow, we move on to Williams and the Grand Canyon.  Since it's about the same elevation as here, we're expecting similar cool weather.  The news is reporting temps in the 80's for the next week in the Phoenix and Salome areas.  We're both anxious to get there, settle down and enjoy the heat.






COLD FRONT IN NEW MEXICO

We've been in New Mexico since last Thursday but we really didn't get to enjoy the area because of the weather.  We're staying at Santa Fe Skies RV park that sits on a hill where you can see the city in the distance. 


Santa Fe at sunset

 They were calling for a cold front to blow in sometime on Friday but the sun was shining in the morning so we decided to drive up to Taos.  It was a nice drive with the road paralleling the Rio Grande River for part of the way. 

Rio Grande River

Picturesque country

Our first stop was the visitors center where we found out that the Taos Pueblos that we had planned to see first was closed for a funeral.  We back-tracked a little to stop at the San Francisco de Asis Church, built in 1772 and reported to be one of the most photographed and painted churches in the world.  (so naturally I had to take a picture!) 

The wind was picking up so we headed to the Rio Grande Gorge and Bridge, the second highest cantilever bridge in the U.S.  It towers 650 ft. above the river and I wasn't sure that I could walk out onto the bridge to look down but we did.

View from the bridge

We walked around the Historic District for a while but by mid afternoon the skies were getting dark and when we felt rain drops, we headed for the truck and home.

We woke Saturday morning to cold temps with 20 mph wind and 60 mph gusts...a good 'pajama day.'  They're calling for the winds to continue till Sunday afternoon.  Since Sunday is 'race day' we really didn't plan to go anywhere, and there are still strong gusts.  

We decided to stay another day so that we could go in to Santa Fe.  It's Veterans Day but I had talked with someone who said that they thought the museums would be open...wrong!  It is sunny and not to windy, and again our first stop was the visitor's center but...it was closed, as well as the New Mexico History Museum.  We decided to walk around the Historic District and get some lunch.  We walked through the Cathedral Basilica of St Frances of Assisi, established in 1610; the Georgia O'Keeffe Museum; and many of the Indian Art Galleries around the plaza. 

It definately seems that we got to New Mexico too late in the season, but one of the gallery owners told us that it was in the 60's just a week ago and this is the best time to come to miss the crowds...still a little disappointing.

EVERYTHING'S BIGGER IN TEXAS!

We pulled into the Amarillo Ranch RV Park on Wednesday afternoon.  After driving for five hours, Keith still agreed to drive another half hour to take us to Palo Duro Canyon.  This immense and wildly colorful canyon is 1000 ft deep and exposes geological formations more than 250 million years old, revealing colorful strata of red clay stone, white gypsum and yellow mudstone as well as layers of limestone and sandstone.  There are a number of these rock wall formations called Spanish skirts. 

Palo Duro Canyon State Park

'Spanish Skirt' rock formation

 

And while I don't do any of the driving, being the passenger can also be tiring sometimes.  I had planned to make dinner and relax for the evening because we will be on the road again for another five hours tomorrow.  But, when we got back from the canyon around 6 pm, I suggested that we try the local restaurant that the campground staff had suggested called "The Big Western Steak Ranch."  It's one of those places that promotes a free dinner if you can eat their 72oz. steak dinner in an hour or less.  (If you fail, you have to pay $72 for the dinner...ouch!)  We took advantage of their other promotion where they send a limo to pick you up and take you back afterward...this one's FREE!

Dining Room decorated for Christmas

 



Our limo complete with longhorn hood ornament

It was a full day but I love seeing and doing something new every day.

BLOWING THROUGH OKLAHOMA

Three hundred thirty miles west of Little Rock on I40 is Oklahoma City, OK.  As we were travelling west, the winds were blowing northeast; not good for the gas mileage (we were getting 3 to 4 miles per gallon less than normal).  We decided to spend two nights in OC to have a day to tour the area a little.

Tuesday morning we walked through the Oklahoma City National Memorial & Museum that takes you through the story of April 19, 1995, and the days that followed the bombing of Oklahoma City's Alfred P. Murrah Federal Building. 168 people were killed in the bombing and aftermath.  Very moving.

Chairs for the dead sit on a knoll beyond the reflection pool

 

 



Bronze and glass chairs with the names of the dead

 

Later, we drove south of town to the Oklahoma National Stockyards.  As we were looking for it, Keith said that we just needed to look for train yard.  When we got there...no train yard...only trucks.  There really wasn't much to see; a lot of animal pens.  But, a friendly lady at the Stockyard Assn next door suggested that we could 'go out back, across the catwalk, and into the auction arena' since there was a live auction going on.  We did and it was fun to watch.  We could barely discern what the auctioneer was saying, and you could not tell who was bidding??

 

 

Auction

We had lunch at the local Cattlemen's Steakhouse.  This restaurant was opened in 1910, making it the city's oldest continuously operating restaurant, as well as a cultural icon.

ARKANSAS: LITTLE ROCK AND HOT SPRINGS

Friday, Nov 2, we're on the road again heading to a campground in North Little Rock, AR.  It was an easy drive day, less than 150 miles.

Saturday morning we drove about 45 minutes south to Hot Springs National Park.  During the 17th and 18th centuries, traders and hunters became familiar with this region, most likely from the American Indians who already knew about and bathed in the hot springs.  It's believed that the traces of minerals and an average temperature of 143 degrees give the waters whatever therapeutic properties they may have. 

Scientists have determined that the waters emerging from the hot springs are over 4,000 years old.  Rainfall is absorbed into the surrounding mountains.  Pores and fractures in the rock conduct the water deep into the Earth.  As the water seeps downward, gravitational compression heats it at the rate of about 4 degrees every 300 feet.  Eventually, the water meets faults and joints leading up to the lower west slope of Hot Springs Mountain, where it surfaces.

Hot spring behind the Fordyce Bathhouse
 

 During the Golden Age of Bathing in the 1920's over a million visitors a year immersed themselves in the hot waters at the monumental bathhouses that were built along Bathhouse Row.  The most elaborate of these was the Fordyce Bathhouse.

"Neptune's Daughters" stained glass ceiling in the Fordyce



 

The "Buckstaff" - one of two remaining active bathhouses

 

On the drive down, I was so amazed that the trees were still so colorful.  Then, while we were walking along the street in Hot Springs, I noticed these flowering bushes and asked the park ranger what they were because they looked like Azaleas.  She confirmed that they were.  She also said that the trees were, in fact, at their peak which would normally have passed by now.  She said that they believe the draught and warmer temperatures is causing these changes this year.



Azaleas blooming in November???

 

 Before we left, we drove to the Hot Springs Mountain Tower where I took the glass elevator to the top open-air observation deck at 216 ft. for an amazing view of the area.

Sunday is 'race day' again.  So, while Keith watched his race, I went for a walk to The Big Dam Bridge that was a short distance from the campground.  The park staff said that it is supposed to be the longest pedestrian bridge in the country (but I couldn't find any info to support the claim).  It spans the Arkansas River, for pedestrians and cyclists only. 

The Big Dam Bridge...connects Little Rock and North Little Rock




ROLLING ON THE RIVER...

On Wednesday (Halloween) morning, we left Nashville.  Next stop...Memphis, the Blues City.  We booked two nights at Tom Sawyer RV Park in West Memphis AR, and opted for a site 'along the river.'  The Mississippi River is low because of this years drought but tugboats seemed to have no problem pushing large barges up the river. 

Dry river bank showing
 

 

How do they navigate ten or twelve barges??
 

 

We had hoped to take a cruise on a riverboat, but when I called I was told that this was the last weekday cruise for the year, and there was no way we were going to make it today.  So, we spent the evening talking with other travelers at the campground and watching the barges.

Thursday, we headed to Graceland and then the Blues City Tours for a tour of the city.  We really enjoyed seeing Graceland, Elvis Presley's home for over twenty years.  They said that he bought it from a local doctor for $113,000.  Then a few years later, he spent $200,000 to add a racquetball/exercise building on the grounds.  The room decor was very bold and very 60's.  But, the "Jungle Room" wasn't as wild as I expected...animal skin chair coverings and wood-carved animals as chair backs and arm rests.  After his death, Elvis was buried at nearby Forest Hills cemetery, but fans kept trying to 'steal' the coffin, so his father had it moved to Graceland. 

The Living Room
 

The tour took us to Sun Studios where Elvis recorded his first 'released' song called "That's All Right (Mama)," Riverfront Park, Beale Street Historic District, and then to the Peabody Hotel at 5 pm to watch the 'Peabody Duck March.'  The Duck March ceremony has been taking place for 80 years and the "Duckmaster" said that he is just the fifth to hold the title since it began.

At 11 am every day, the ducks leave their rooms on the roof of the hotel, take the elevator to the lobby, walk the red carpet and jump into the fountain in the center of the lobby.  Every evening, they reverse the ceremony returning to their rooms.